South America part 3 – Argentina, Palermo

Cafe Tortoni
After La Boca we went out to eat at the famous and oldest cafee in Buenos Aires – cafe Tortoni. It is also one of the most beautiful, reminded me of the Opera Theater in Odessa, Ukraine,that has made a huge impression on me.

I still remember, more than 12 years later, the opera I was listening to, the heavy gold chandelier that looked like it was croched, while weighting not much less than the Titanic (exaggeration of course:)). I remember taste of caviar sandwiches during intermission and how stunned I was, drinking champagne mixed with my tears (I was crying for Iolanta and her ill fate).

I got a bit carried away here:) The impression the cafe has made on me was quite different from Odessa Opera Theater but nevertheless unforgettable.
I must mention that for the first time in 6 months I was sorry I quit smoking since Tortoni has an excellent smoking room.
For instance in the US the smokers have to either go outside or sit it a special area.



And here for that purpose they have a very cosy room with many tables, chairs and sofas draped in red velvet. Also, for your pleasure and entertainment, there are many magazines, books and such. Coffee can be requested to be brpought here and you can peacefully enjoy your cigarette or cigar while reading or conversing with your friends.


The husbands stayed with children on the main floor and Marcela and I went into the smoking room after asking the waiter to bring us our coffee there. The cigarette smoke was a bit overwhelming and irritating but in spite if that I was dying for a few puffs just to experience smoking in this smokers’ paradise:)

Besides beautiful decor, the food was also delicious, the toasted crustless cheese sandwiches were positively divine. All other food was no less amazing.

To my surprise the waiter who served us was a Russian guy from St. Petersburg named Dennis. He was actually a resident. I do not blame him, if I was to move, it would be to Buenos Aires.

Palermo and Jardin Japones

About Palermo I heard a lot from Roberto. He is a big fan. When he used to be a cab driver, his route always started in Palermo. Palermo is a quite wealthy part of Buenos Aires and very beautiful. Here is where the famous Recoletta cemetery (where Evita was buried) is located and no less famous Palermo Zoo and Jardin Japones (Japanese Garden).

We didn’t make it to the cemetery itself but stopped at the church, prayed, then went for a walk around the cemetery enjoying the view through the fence. Next time we will definitely try to get inside.

We left a trip to the zoo for another time and headed over to the Jardin Japones. Jardin Japones is a small Japanese-style park. Very nice but not easy to describe with words, so I am going to post lots of pictures.

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